The “dinner roll” is dead – here’s the best restaurant bread in town.
It’s the ice breaker, the belly liner, the great equaliser. It transcends cultures, cuisines and budgets, and – at its best – can be the most memorable part of a meal. It even helped us get through a pandemic (hello, sourdough).
I’m talking about bread; the glutinous miracle that’s near impossible to resist.
From the just-puffed rounds of Afghan flatbread at Thebarton eatery Lawash, to the fancified “bread course” at Two-Michelin starred Magill Estate Restaurant, bread comes in many glorious forms – here’s what I’m loving right now:
Neapolitan loaves at Back to Nap, Stonyfell
Adelaide’s best kept secret. Award-winning pizzaiolo Ettore Bertonati, who formerly ran Madre pizzeria, now spins dough at this understated spot in Stonyfell. He flames traditional Neapolitan loaves for pre-orders, which can. be picked up Wednesday and Friday mornings – think: pane cafone, a crusty no-knead loaf, to rolled loaves filled with pesto, pine nutes, sun-dried tomatoes, olives and mozzarella.
Sourdough flatbread with confit garlic butter at 2KW, Adelaide
Just try to stop at one bite. Fluffy, chewy, buttery and with the delightful savoury pops of nigella seeds, chef Sam Christopher’s flat bread is a must-order. You’ll want to take home seconds.
Koulouri at Omada, Adelaide
Omada’s cloud-like pita is bar none, but equally great is the koulouri – a ring-shaped dough to be eaten warm and torn by hand. Omada’s version is a little lighter than the original, with higher hydration, baked fresh daily and brushed with honey and finished with salt. Dangerously moreish.
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Sourdough at Thelma, Piccadilly
It’s a highly marketed term these days, but sourdough shouldn’t taste generic – take Thelma’s, with all the depth of flavour that can only be brought about by a long-loved mother starter and time-honoured skill. Chef Tom Campbell serves his with butter that’s been whipped with burnt butter – it’s insanely good.
Gnoccho fritto at Fugazzi, Adelaide
If you know Fugazzi or its older sister, Nido, then you know the gnoccho fritto. Cult loved, it consists of fried pizza-like dough, puffed and golden, served alongside whipped ricotta topped with honey, fresh cracked pepper, evoo and salt.
This article first appeared in the August issue of SALIFE.
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