Tomorrow’s table
Hospitality has weathered some of its toughest years – now, a new wave of budding chefs is bringing fresh energy and optimism to Adelaide’s dining scene.
“Beaming with pride” is an oft-used expression, but no better words could describe the look on chef Liam Oats’s face when he served his first feature dish at Michelin-starred restaurant Esmay.
The 29-year-old was part of a line-up of young chefs involved at a recent San Pellegrino x Esmay dinner – a celebration of budding culinary stars. Under the guidance of Esmay’s Alanna Sapwell and Melbourne chef Zackary Furst, the participants were tasked to design, prepare and deliver a dish that represented who they are as a chef. For Liam, that was an intricate Murray cod ballotine, showcasing techniques he learnt from both mentors.
“I believe classical things done well can be some of the most enjoyable meals we eat,” says Liam, who moved to Adelaide from Melbourne to work with Alanna.
“I want to specialise in giving people the best experience they can have with yummy food and warm, careful service. I’d like to move back to my hometown Geelong after years of moving around, gaining all the knowledge I can, to open my own place … a place where, hopefully, I can inspire other young industry chefs or front of house.”
Liam is among a committed cohort of cooks choosing to build a career in a profession that has struggled to retain and attract talent in recent years.
National Centre for Vocational Education Research figures show the number of South Australians who’ve commenced professional cookery apprentices halved in the years 2021-2025, from 325 to 160.
Encouraging keen talent is key to the future of the industry, says respected Adelaide chef Emma McCaskill, who teaches Certificate II in Cookery at Adelaide Botanic High School. The program aims to foster kids’ interest early – and it appears to be working. When Emma launched the program at the school in 2021, it was a struggle to fill a single class of 10. In 2027, the school plans to run two full classes with enrolments capped at 15 students – a 300 per cent increase.
“We’ve worked hard to build genuine traction and show young people just how rewarding a career as a chef can be,” Emma says.
What’s even more encouraging, she says, is that of the 14 most recent graduates, 13 are moving onto apprenticeships and further trade studies – an unprecedented outcome.
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“I was fortunate to have an incredible mentor in [late chef] Teage Ezard, and I feel a responsibility to pass that generosity, knowledge and support on to the next generation,” Emma says.
“If we want a strong hospitality industry in the future, we need to invest in young people today, nurture their passion, and show them that it can be a rewarding, sustainable and fulfilling career.”
For Alanna, taking on apprentices is about investing in the future of the industry. Her first year apprentice Anna Timpano, 23, who was also involved in the Esmay dinner, took out the Signature Dish category at the recent Nestlé Golden Chef’s Hat Awards.
“Hospitality has always been driven by young people,” says Alanna, who began her career at age 15 as a school-based trainee before moving into an apprenticeship.
“While our industry has made huge strides in creating more sustainable workplaces, we also have a responsibility to nurture the next generation. If we don’t invest in young talent, there isn’t a bright future for hospitality – and I truly believe hospitality is one of the backbones of a strong community. It brings people together in a way few industries can.”
The recent dinner was an “incredibly proud moment” for Alanna, suggesting that guiding young chefs is just as rewarding for mentors.
“I’m not someone who wears my emotions on my sleeve, and I’ve never really had the desire to be a mum, but seeing them step up for the evening was probably the closest I’ll ever come to that feeling,” she says.
“Watching someone you’ve mentored back themselves, execute under pressure and realise they’re capable of more than they thought is one of the most rewarding moments of leading a team.”
In celebration of the budding talent coming through Adelaide’s dining scene, SALIFE spoke to some of the rising stars about their visions for the future.
Charlie One, 24, chef at Rosemont Hall
Growing up in hospitality, Charlie One decided early he wanted to work in kitchens. In July, he was crowned the South Australian winner of the Nestlé Golden Chef’s Hat Awards.
“My goal is to own a restaurant that shines a light on Laos cuisine,” Charlie says. “I have a South East Asian background and they’re the flavours I grew up eating.”
The imminent arrival of the Michelin Guide in South Australia is further encouragement to pursue a long career in the industry, he says.
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“Australia is one of the most exciting places to eat right now because of how many cultures and cuisines come together here,” he adds. “We’ve got amazing produce and influences – it gives us endless opportunity to create something new.”
Anna Timpano, 23, first year apprentice at Esmay
For Anna Timpano, cooking offers a platform to share stories.
“One of the most influential dining experiences I had wasn’t so much about the food; it was the young chefs presenting it and hearing their stories,” Anna says. “That inspired me to create food that told a story and was based on a particular memory.”
Anna’s goal is to specialise in pastry. “I grew up baking with my sister and that was how we bonded,” she says.
“When I started working in commercial kitchens it always frustrated me that the desserts on the menu seemed like an afterthought … it made me want to apply the same principles and care given to creating balance on the rest of the menu, using the natural characteristics of vegetables and fruits and building layers of flavours.”
Sienna Astley-Dixon, 18, Certificate II Cookery graduate at Adelaide Botanic High School
Sienna Astley-Dixon works as a kitchenhand at restaurant Esmay and has been offered an apprenticeship once she completes her senior studies.
“At the start of Covid, I got into baking … then I realised I didn’t want to get up at 3am, so I tried the VET course last year with Emma,” she smiles. “I just want to make food people remember.”
Sienna echoes the sentiments of other young chefs around the future of food focusing on hyper local and sustainable ingredients. “Using native foods … kangaroo, emu, bush tucker – I think it’s a great way to evolve in the food industry,” she says.
Marília Menezes, 31, chef at Esmay
If Marília Menezes’ mushroom agnolini served at the S. Pellegrino x Esmay dinner is anything to go by, Adelaide has a future star on its hands. Her intention was to make great pasta – she did that and more, serving the filled pasta parcels with a deeply satisfying parmesan broth and kombu.
In looking to the future, the chef wants to support local producers and create delicious food that tells a story or provides memories. “I think luxury is no longer about expensive ingredients, but about quality, care and connection,” she says.
Liam Oats, 29, chef at Esmay
Having grown up in hospitality – his parents ran cafes and his grandparents owned a country pub – cooking is in Liam Oats’s blood. He wants to focus on classic techniques and “old school” hospitality.
“It’s important to still be pushing the limits of what we can do … it’s also very warm and wholesome to dine out on some classics with a glass of shiraz,” he says.
This story first appeared in the August issue of SALIFE.
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