Why this Mexican diner caught Michelin’s eye
A longing for authentic Mexican food led Daniella Guevara Muñoz to open La Popular Taqueria – now, the Port Adelaide eatery has been awarded by Michelin Guide.
It’s almost not a restaurant.
Jovial, unpretentious and unapologetically real, La Popular Taqueria feels more an extension of its owners’ home than somewhere one books to eat.
Though, booking is recommended. The 26-seat pocket of Mexico nestled in historic Port Adelaide can get busy with locals and far-flung food lovers alike. It even captured the attention of anonymous Michelin Guide inspectors, whose tick of approval has led to La Popular Taqueria being awarded a Bib Gourmand in the inaugural Michelin Guide South Australia, meaning it offers quality food at great value.
And it is all about the food. No white tablecloths and leather-bound menus, here – this is an eatery driven by flavour, authenticity and heart, brought to life by some of the most genuine people you’ll meet.
Though life in hospitality wasn’t always the plan.
Rewind 17 years and Daniella Guevara Muñoz, who runs the venue with husband Kor-jent van Dijk, was diving in the turquoise waters of the Great Barrier Reef as a marine biologist.
The pair had moved from their homeland Mexico to Townsville to pursue their respective careers but, in time, Daniella’s thoughts began to drift from fish to food.
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They eventually set roots in Adelaide – the perfect place, Daniella says, to bring her culinary vision to life. She began hosting dinners at home and then opened La Popular Taqueria in in 2017.
Almost a decade on from then, and the place is buzzing on this Thursday night. With canary yellow and bright teal walls, playful murals, laminated menus and tequila-stacked shelves, the venue oozes fiesta over formality.
From an open kitchen, a stream of snacks, homestyle dishes and street food favourites are served – not to mention excellent margaritas to get the party started.
To begin, the guacamole is excellent, or you might like to try the churritos – squiggly strands of fried tortilla dough (masa), served warm, with all the tang and heat to get mouths salivating.
Tortilla soup or sopa de tortilla, also known as Aztec soup, is deceptively humble – the kind of belly-warming fare that quietly exceeds expectation. Into a base of guajillo chilli-spiked chicken stock goes crispy fried strips of tortilla and mozzarella – mix it all around for spoonfuls of smokey broth, molten cheese and satisfying crunch, while a wedge of fresh avocado brings cool, creamy contrast.
Do check the specials – tonight, the chilaquiles verdes is perfect for sharing. A traditional breakfast staple (often topped with a fried egg or shredded chicken), it arrives as a generous bowl of housemade tortilla crisps bathed in an aromatic green salsa, made with tomatillos grown in Daniella’s home garden. The tortilla triangles remain just crisp – al dente, even – exactly how Daniella likes them. It’s a detail that sparks fierce debate back home in Mexico, she says; her sister, for one, prefers them soft. It’s Mexico’s version of Australia’s own breakfast debate: Do you like your Weet-Bix crunchy, or soggy?
Also crispy are the tostadas – a hand-held snack commonly found at markets. Tonight’s de tinga version features shredded chicken that’s been simmered in a smokey chipotle and tomato sauce, layered with refried beans, fresh lettuce and a drizzle of cool cream.
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Like so much tonight, it’s a play on texture and temperature that keeps you coming back for more.
Tacos are the main event, and they’re worthy of celebration. Not least for the exceptional corn tortillas Daniella crafts by hand – a far cry from the dry, chewy supermarket versions – and undoubtedly one of the reasons the restaurant was recently awarded a Sello M, the Mexican government’s official seal of authenticity. Soft, flexible and flavoursome – and conveniently free of gluten – they’re the perfect wrap for fillings such as the popular cochinita: slow-cooked pork topped with pickled onions. You’ll also find baja-style fish tacos, pollo adobado (marinated chicken) and a number of vegetarian versions in the mix.
Tonight’s highlight is the carne asada – one of the tastiest eats you’ll find in Adelaide right now. For this, cheese is grilled directly on the hotplate before a tortilla is laid on top; once flipped, that golden crust of charred cheese becomes the base. Strips of steak, marinated with lime, orange and coriander, are then grilled until their edges caramelise into deeply savoury, smokey morsels – the umami-rich bits steak lovers fight for. The meat is accompanied by a tomato and chilli-based salsa, and a generous heaping of fresh guacamole.
It’s the kind of dish you’ll think about until you return. Or, for keen cooks, the recipe for carne asada – along with many other dishes on the menu – can be found in Daniella’s recently-released cookbook, Provecho: Real Mexican Food at Home.
That reflects the generous nature of La Popular Taqueria and its owners. There are no secrets – it’s all about sharing culture through food. They’re opening their home, and you’ve got a seat at the table.
One dessert is on offer, here: a cream cheese flan (flan de queso) that’s like a cross between crème caramel and cheesecake, with a pleasingly bitter burnt sugar syrup.
It’s dangerously moreish.
Chef: Daniella Guevara Muñoz
Cuisine: Mexican
Drinks: Traditional spirits including tequila and mezcal,
plus softies.
Cost: Most starters $6.50-$22 (share style);
tacos $10-$12.50
Must try: Carne asada taco
Hot take: Join the fiesta
226 St Vincent Street, Port Adelaide
lapopulartaqueria.com.au
Open: Tue-Fri dinner, Sat lunch and dinner
This article first appeared in the August 2026 issue of SALIFE magazine.
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