Thelma review
A restaurant without a menu? Leave it up to the chef at this must-visit Adelaide Hills bistro that champions local produce.
“There’s no menu,” our server explains with a smile. “Nothing is printed. You’ll be told what you’re having as it comes out.”
We’re at Thelma, a cosy European-style bistro in Piccadilly, Adelaide Hills. It’s barely 6.45pm, and it’s pitch black out; still, but icy, winter eagerly setting upon the already cool, undulating landscape.
The intimate 18-seat dining room brings welcome, warm respite. It’s dimly lit and quiet, overseen by a small open kitchen where chef Tom Campbell moves with confidence and ease.
Thelma, opened little more than 12 months ago by Campbell (formerly Summertown Aristologist), Olivia Moore (LOC Bottle Bar) and James Spreadbury (formerly Noma), recently began offering Saturday dinners on top of its weekend lunch trade. The usual a la carte menu is put aside in favour of Campbell’s maverick combinations based on small batch crops and what’s “in the fridge”. That means no looking up a menu before your visit; no under-table Googling of “what is chawanmushi”. It’s a chance for diners to experience prized chef’s cuts and Campbell’s talents off-script.
“I write the menu maybe an hour before people walk in,” Campbell says. “And it can change during service – I might see something in the fridge I want to use.
“It’s a lot of fun and exciting for me … there are a lot of little plates; bits that I don’t normally use for a la carte service: the throat of the nannygai, the really fatty delicious cuts from the raw beef dish that I do – all those cuts which aren’t really enough to service a restaurant when we’re doing 30 covers, but if it’s just 15 or so for dinner, everyone can get one tiny taste of these special bits.”
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What unfolds over several hours on this evening is a progression of 14 small plates, from savoury to sweet tastes, that celebrate hyper local growers and seasonal eating.
Chawanmushi – a savoury, just-set custard that hints at Campbell’s previous experience in Japanese kitchens – is a hug in a bowl. Creamy lobes of sea urchin draped atop bring a whisper of sea minerality, while surprisingly sweet pops of spring onion add freshness. Having opted for the optional addition of truffle, it’s finished with a generous petal of the luxe, earthy ingredient.
That dish is the perfect segue to a tasting of raw King George whiting, salted mere minutes before serving; the skin just-set by heat from the grill. The meticulously-sliced, bite-sized pieces are accompanied by an umami-rich paste Campbell makes from rose petals (the remnants of rose vinegar) and a teeny, sweet wedge of Meyer lemon. It’s innovative cooking.
An exquisite “plate of vegetables”, the vast majority of which is sourced from friends at Presquil farm, is produce-to-plate at its best. Yes, you’ll find gorgeous pickled and just-plucked bits (the citrussy burst of a single French sorrel leaf is a revelation), but also Tokyo turnips seasoned with a deeply savoury rye, lentil and pumpkin seed paste; the hearts of radicchio rosa, more delicate than bitter, filled with an equally delicate chicken liver parfait; funky fermented tomatillo sandwiched between slices of crisp kohlrabi and gala apple, and curls of bitter puntarella leaves filled with anchovy paste.
Some dishes may excite more than others. Port Lincoln sardine with noodle-like shreds of potato and seaweed in broth feels feather-light compared to hearty offal sausage, accompanied by a single charred spring onion, sharp house mustard and reduced whey (clever). Sweets, meanwhile, range from a nostalgic, pudding-y financier with rhubarb and kefir cream, to a bright rendition of the sorrel, simply filled with a kind of compote made with tae, logan and boysenberries, which were sourced from local winemaker, Anton Von Klopper.
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Every dish offers points for discussion: intriguing flavours, textures and technique. For former Summertown Aristologist fans, the influence will be clear: the focus on farming; the minimal waste and from-scratch cooking. However, Thelma feels more widely approachable; bright and relaxed, with a strong sense of community. At the table adjacent, a young man has taken his mum “out for tea” – a belated Mother’s Day celebration. She is giddy with excitement. Among the other tables are couples and friendly pairs, who all seem to be enjoying the sense of calm in an otherwise mad world.
If an hours-long “surprise” dinner isn’t your idea of a good time, do go for lunch – Thelma’s a la carte menu is equally suitable for a graze as it is a multi-course meal. Think, beautiful sourdough with nut brown butter; incredible, near-translucent cured sardines topped with anchovy; and a gorgeous bowl of steaming mussels in a dashi-spiked broth (keep some of that bread to soak up the juices).
Drinks are considered, too. The wine list champions local drops, with a handful of internationals rounding out the mix. You can buy some of those on site, along with a curated selection of pantry items including fancy tinned fish and dried pasta.
It all forms part of a dining experience that feels as good for the soul as it does the stomach. And don’t we all need a bit more of that.
Chef: Tom Campbell (note: Stephen Peak is the resident chef until October 19)
Cuisine: Contemporary Australian
Drinks: Local wines
Cost: Dinner (secret menu) $95. A la carte plates $14-$29(ish)
Must try: Whatever chef serves up.
For lunch: the mussels
176 Piccadilly Rd, Piccadilly
thelmapiccadilly.com.au
Open: Lunch Fri-Sun 12pm-3pm; Dinner Sat from 6pm
Hot take: Innovative cooking
This article first appeared in the August 2025 issue of SALIFE magazine.
