Three minutes with Taiaha Ngawiki
Having grown up in Willunga, Taiaha Ngawiki pursued his career overseas before returning to the Fleurieu with a wide breadth of culinary experience and love for his Maori heritage. Today, he’s head chef at Harry’s Deli at Wirra Wirra Vineyards.
Ben Tell me a bit about Harry’s Deli.
Taiaha Harry’s Deli is situated amongst the biodynamic vineyards of Wirra Wirra, offering a welcoming, yet sophisticated place to dine and taste world class wine in its place of production. Harry’s Deli has grown from a cosy accompaniment to the wine into a restaurant boasting flavours from around the world. We continue to build on the dream of comfort food, locally and sustainably sourced produce paired with bold flavours.
Ben Where else have you worked in your career?
Taiaha I started washing dishes for David Swain at FINO in Willunga in 2007 at the age of 14. I cut my teeth as a chef working in Hyde Park restaurants including under Mauro Bertoli at Melt Pizzeria, and as sous chef for Mohamed Bartaouch at Marrakech. Moving back to the Fleurieu and working under Tom Boden at Ellen Street Restaurant eventually led to travel overseas. I travelled through Europe for many months on a slim budget – cooking, shucking oysters and performing music to get by. This journey took me back to Australia and then New Zealand, a place where I could connect with family and heritage. I opened a successful burger bar in Auckland and worked with Leslie Posey at Goldie Winery on Waiheke Island. New Zealand helped build my confidence not only in the kitchen but working with people, too.
Ben How would you define your style?
Taiaha Bold and full of flavour. When designing dishes, I start by sourcing the produce and aim to let the raw product shine. I love the intricacy of balancing flavours. I’m a fan of fusion which I continue to fine tune and develop. The use of classical techniques done in modern, Australian fashion and simple, well-balanced food with house-made products form the base of my style.
Ben How did growing up in Willunga shape your future as a chef?
Taiaha Growing up in Willunga was a great introduction to food. Almond orchards and vineyards are part of my core memories, as well as playing under the giant Willunga mulberry tree, eating until we could eat no more. I remember my mother took me to the farmers’ market not long after it opened and the Italian influence had a huge impact on me – especially my first time trying angel wings and freshly-made pasta. I remember stalls of local, sustainable and biodynamic produce alongside sourdough bread, honey and sauces and chutneys.
Ben What are you most proud of at Harry’s Deli?
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Taiaha I am most proud of our growth, sometimes when something already has a brand it can be hard to build something new without taking apart the original foundation. I feel like we have managed to keep the history of Harry’s Deli and Wirra Wirra heritage in both service and menu while continuing to strive towards excellence. Simple offerings done with high quality ingredients and a sense of taste and style.
Ben What is one ingredient you can’t live without?
Taiaha Eggs!
Ben Is there a signature dish of yours on the menu?
Taiaha I have built my signature dishes on the menu around the style of Harry’s Deli including the Asian-inspired fried chicken and the goat’s cheese smoked chilli brisket.
Ben Name one experience that has changed your perspective on life.
Taiaha When my son was born it completely changed my view on the world. I realised that family, friends and culture are what is truly important in life. It also brought me back to the simplest aspects of cooking. How something simple done to a very high standard is the secret to good food.
Ben Who has been your biggest inspiration?
Taiaha My mother’s love for good produce and her childhood connection to France and Italy are a huge influence on my culinary style. She worked long shifts, so I was allowed in the kitchen and encouraged to cook from a young age. I made so many mistakes in these times and was met with honest feedback which taught me the reasons for techniques and recipes. I got to see her passion for simplicity and freshness and small joys such as handmade pasta with nought but olive oil, salt and basil from the garden, or a cafe creme and croissant. Throughout my whole career, I’ve sought out the greatest chefs and absorbed as much from them as I could, but my mother remains my biggest inspiration.
This story was first published in the October 2025 edition of SALIFE Magazine.
