Maggie Beer’s lambs brains in burnt butter, capers and Verjuice sauce
South Australian cooking icon Maggie Beer shares one of her favourite recipes, which she says brings back childhood memories.
Maggie’s lambs brains in burnt butter, capers and Verjuice sauce
serves 2
Note from Maggie: These days you have to order brains in advance from your butcher and, sadly, they’ll nearly always be frozen. Don’t let that deter you, however, as this dish, teamed with a glass of chilled Seppeltsfield Flor-Fino sherry, is one of the great food matches of my life. A big statement, I know, but there is something about the creaminess of the brains combined with the finesse of the sherry that makes me salivate even as I write this. It’s always best to poach the brains the day before to allow enough time for them to set properly.
4 sets brains
30g unsalted butter
1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tbsp salted capers, rinsed
¼ cup (60ml) Verjuice
2 tbsp chopped flat-leaf parsley leaves
To prepare the brains place in a bowl and cover with cold water.
Transfer to the fridge to soak for two hours, then drain well. Wrap each set of brains tightly in foil so they hold their shape. Put the foil parcels in a deep-sided frying pan and cover with cold water. Place over high heat and bring to the boil, then immediately reduce the heat to low-medium and simmer for 12 minutes. Remove the foil parcels with a slotted spoon and transfer to a plate, then store in the refrigerator for at least one hour to set (although anywhere up to 12 hours is preferable).
When ready to cook, remove the foil from the brains and pat them dry with paper towel. Cut each brain in half lengthways.
Melt the butter in a large frying pan over medium-high heat and cook for 2-3 minutes or until nut-brown, adding the oil when the butter starts to bubble to prevent it from burning. Lightly season the brains then fry them, cut-side down, for two minutes before turning them over to cook for 1 minute on the other side.
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Add the capers and Verjuice and cook, stirring, for about 30-45 seconds or until the liquid reduces by half, then scatter over the parsley.
Remove from heat and serve immediately.
This article first appeared in the March 2025 issue of SALIFE magazine.
