‘Full circle’ moment for Shōbōsho’s new head chef
It’s a homecoming for the new head chef at one of Adelaide’s landmark Asian BBQ restaurants, who has brought back a deeper appreciation for ingredients after his time overseas.
Shōbōsho was the first “serious kitchen” chef Shakaan Abillion ever worked in.
He’s now the iconic Leigh Street restaurant’s new head chef, having moved interstate and then overseas to learn the tricks of the trade in some of the world’s best kitchens.
His appointment, revealed by CityMag today, is touted as a story of reinvention for the Filipino-Australian chef whose roots trace back to one of the most beloved eateries in the city.
He replaces internationally-renowned chef Adam Liston, who announced his departure from the restaurant in March and was integral in establishing both Shōbōsho and its sister restaurant ShoSho in Hyde Park.
Adam is now involved in helping establish a soon-to-open rooftop restaurant and bar called Yakisan at the $300 million Eighty Eight O’Connell development in North Adelaide.
Shakaan began his career at Shōbōsho as an apprentice, peeling potatoes. He’s come a long way and will now lead that very same kitchen, having recently undertaken a culinary pilgrimage through Japan.
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“I’ve come full circle”, Shakaan says.
“Shōbōsho was the first serious kitchen I ever stepped into. It set the bar – and now it’s where I get to raise it.”
Shakaan’s culinary career has taken him to Moonlight Hibachi in Byron Bay, where he worked closely with producers.
“In the city, so much produce just arrives. But when you’re the one picking it out at the market, or meeting the person who raised the animal – it changes your entire approach,” he says.
This approach is at the centre of Shakaan’s leadership of Shōbōsho, where he’s vowed to foster deeper connections with local suppliers and prioritise provenance.
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He also worked at hatted Brisbane restaurant hôntô before travelling through Japan where he dined in six-seater yakitori bars, fish market izakayas and Michelin-starred restaurants.
He says Japan is where he developed a new way of thinking about food.
“The Japanese approach is to perfect one thing. Whether it’s rice or raw fish, there’s a reverence to it,” he says.
“It’s not about excess – it’s about purity, patience, and absolute focus.
“Cooking with fire is an art in itself. There’s no fixed temperature. You have to move with it, understand it. The unpredictability is where the magic happens.”
Under his leadership, Shakaan has reimagined the Shō Yakitori bar – the ten-seater dining space nestled below the main dining room.
Here, he will offer a curated yakitori experience that draws from his time in Japan, as well as his training under Korean chefs.
Expect skewers cooked over binchotan charcoal and layered with familiar flavours that are elevated through technique.
He hopes this will be a more personal expression of his approach to food.
Shōbōsho is open seven days a week at 17 Leigh Street, Adelaide.
For opening hours and more, connect with the restaurant on Instagram.
